"If Antarctica were music it would be Mozart. Art, and it would be Michelangelo. Literature, and it would be Shakespeare. And yet it is something even greater; the only place on earth that is still as it should be. May we never tame it." - Andrew Denton

Monday, December 14, 2009

Heading Home

I am in a hotel in Buenos Aires waiting for the transfer to the airport for the planes home. We fly to Lima and then to Miami. We spent the day shopping and walking around the city, so that was nice. Buenos Aires is a very fun city, I can see why people like it so much.
I must say, I am ready to go home, but I miss Antarctica and the penguins. I am looking forward to making a scrapbook with all my pictures and remembering this trip for years to come!

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Drake Passage part 2

So we are on the second (full) day of the Drake Passage. Its not so bad at the moment, but is supposed to get worse as we head to Cape Horn.
Tomorrow we arrive at Ushuaia and then fly to Buenos Aires, and then spend another day there before going home!!
I was really sad to leave Antarctica, but now that we are being tossed and turned by the seas, nice solid land and a nice hot beach are sounding good.
Sorry there is nothing terribly interesting anymore to report. I have been watching Happy Feet, which is now one of my favorite movies. I <3 penguins.

Friday, December 11, 2009

The continent

So to pick up where I left off…dealing with the bad weather, we did actually make it to the Ukrainian scientific base. It was fun to see, but man, I could never live there. This base operates all year, whereas the British one only operates in the summer. We all got the feeling that the Ukrainian base was a bit more serious. There is also a bar, and some people got shots of vodka. We looked around their gift shop, appropriately named “The Southernmost Souvenir Shop on the Earth”. However, it was rather expensive, so we didn’t buy anything. It was a bit hazardous getting back to the ship. For every landing site the ship lowers its anchor as close as it can get safely, and then the passengers are sent out in tiny little zodiacs, which only hold 8 people. Everyone on the ship is in a group of 30 or so people, and you are supposed to go get on the zodiacs when your group is called. There have been some issues about waiting your turn, but all the kinks were worked out by the last day, as there was someone who appointed himself bodyguard of the line to get on the zodiac.
However, about the hazard about getting back on that day was that we had to sail through a very small channel to get to the site on the zodiac. While at the southernmost gift shop of the world, I overheard our expedition leader, Karin, (who my mom and I refer to as Doppelganger Jan - All you Knox people, she looks exactly like Jan Koran, that trustee who always gives speeches at homecoming, and speaks at commencement about the ceremony 100 years ago) saying that the channel we sailed through was icing over quickly, and we may be stuck there. So, I grabbed my mom, and our little group of friends, and ushered them quickly to the boat, so we got out of there before it froze. The leaders who always leave the site last had to find another way out.
That evening, we drove through the Lemaire channel when it was nice out (we had gone through it in the morning when it was too foggy to see) and so we all took lots and lots of pictures. The next day it was snowing, but not too heavily, so we were able to make it to our two sites that were actually on the Antarctic peninsula. We have been landing on small islands that from a map look like they are connected, but aren’t. There are very few places you can actually land on the peninsula because it is so icy and rocky, and has so many glaciers that calve frequently (calving is when there is so much snow that it can’t take the weight so large chunks of snow fall off and become icebergs.)
Our first stop was in Paradise Harbor, a little bay that’s tall sides protect whatever is in there from most weather conditions. We stopped at an Argentinean base that had been abandoned after the base doctor went insane and burnt it to the ground. We got to see more penguin rookeries, and then climb to the top of a mountain. I even saw some moss on the mountain, which is the first green thing I think I have seen in nature here. The best part about the climb, however, was that we got to slide all the way down a different path- using our waterproof coats as sleds. I did it twice it was so much fun.
After we left the base, the zodiac drove us around the bay some more to see blue-eyed shags (a type of bird) and their nests. Oddly enough we saw what we think was a photo shoot going on in the bay…some man was holding skis and the others were taking pictures. Since skiing is pretty much impossible here, especially where we had landed, it did not make much sense. The coolest thing we saw in the ride was an incredible iceberg, it had three sides so our zodiac drove right into it and let us sit in it for a while. I even touched it ☺.
When we returned to the ship, we ate lunch and then sat up on the observation deck looking for whales until the next landing in the afternoon at Neko Harbor, another site on the actual peninsula. We got to see more penguin rookeries and a fantastic view from the top of the hill. There was also a seal lying on the beach, so that was fun to see and take pictures of. This was our last landing, and we started to head north. Today we are in the Drake Passage, having just as much fun as the first crossing. ☹. We will make it to Ushuaia in a few days, and then fly back to Buenos Aires, and then home!!

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Penguins, Gift stores, and elephant seals

December 8th, 2009

Today we had two landings, one in the morning and one in the evening. The first landing was at Cuverville Island, and the second was at Port Lockeroy. The first landing was very cool…we saw one of the largest Gentoo penguin colonies…every part that was not covered in snow was covered in penguins nesting and building up their nests. The penguins make their nests out of stones, and steal stones out of each other’s nests and return them to their mates’ nest. Both the male and the female take part in sitting on the eggs and finding or stealing the stones from other nests. We watched them swim, and then climb to the top of the mountain and down again. There were probably a thousand on the island. We also saw one Adelie penguin who we think had either come up from the ocean for a rest before swimming home, or was confused and had made its way to the wrong rookery. The island itself was breath-taking…the landing spot was in a little bay, and had snow covered mountains and icebergs. The water is so incredibly clear here, you can see straight down to the bottom, and even see the undersides of some icebergs.
The next landing that we did was at Port Lockeroy. This is a British base where a few people conduct scientific research in the Austral summer (Nov-March). They have a small gift shop, and a museum about the past of the base. This building is surrounded by nesting penguins as well, although they were very used to humans and walked all around us. There was also an elephant seal, which was so well camouflaged among the rocks it was nearly impossible to see. The people who worked at the base had named him Jabba, and explained he was banished from his colony since he was a young male, and the older males in the colony did not want competition during mating season. So he is currently chilling out at the port, and molting, and will be able to return to his colony after mating season is over. We also got to walk around a peninsula where we saw old whale bones, and some big rocks covered with nesting penguins. However, we got to see the penguin eggs at this location, so that was really neat. Typically, they have and incubate 2 eggs, and one is expected to hatch.
I also got good pictures of icebergs, and the scenery today. The water here is so unbelievably, incredibly calm. No one is taking nausea medicines now, although we do have our return trip in the Drake Passage to look forward to ☹. Honestly, this environment down here feels like we are in another world, and that nothing is exactly real. Its too pristine and beautiful to be real. We have two more landings tomorrow, which should be fun…they say we will see a big colony of Adelie penguins, and then go to a Ukraine science base, where they have a pub, which is just mind boggling; I think the only one on the continent. This place is so remote that I am surprised that there are enough people to maintain a pub, but I am very excited to go to it. And we drive through the Lameire channel starting at 6:30am. This passage is supposed to be so beautiful and people take so many pictures, that people call it the Kodak Crack.

December 9th, 2009

Well the “Kodak crack” is not all its cracked up to be at the moment. Its cloudy and snowing, and it all looks very menacing out there. We waited 3 extra hours to even try the channel, and then towards the end had to turn around due to ice activity. Although the ship is advertised as an ice breaker, its more of an ice “pusher” and it apparently couldn’t push enough. So, we sailed back up the channel and will try to sail down it again. We are running super behind schedule, but have told us that there will still be a landing today.
Yesterday, I went to a program about taking pictures, which was actually really fun. I took about 75 photos yesterday alone, and am hoping to take even more today, if the weather clears. Unfortunately, at the moment we can’t see more then 15 meters in front of us. The water too has gotten a little rockier, but still nothing compared to the Drake Passage. I don’t think I will ever be on waters worse than the Drake Passage for the rest of my life. Although, I learned something very scary yesterday…the trip down in the Drake was, according to the people who work on this ship, mild, and its typically worse.
In a way I am glad we are seeing the weather like this, it gives a better impression of what Antarctica is all about; even though it is absolutely gorgeous and breathtaking, it is also inhospitable and dangerous. There is a reason no one lives here. However, I hope this nasty stuff passes soon. Its not terribly fun to be on a boat in a storm, and the nicer it gets, the quicker we will get to landing spots.

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Deception Island

December 7th, 2009
We did our first landing on Deception Island. It is shaped kind of like a giant C, and is where a giant volcano collapsed. The last eruption was in the late 60s. The views were simply breathtaking…so, so beautiful. Plus, it was nice to be on solid ground again, even if it was just for an hour. We saw several penguins and a seal; but this area was not a real penguin rookery. They were cute though, and hopefully were not spooked by our presence. Tomorrow we are going to get on the peninsula, and we have two more landing sites to do- tomorrow morning and evening (we didn’t even make it out onto Deception Island until after 8, but since the sun rarely sets, it wasn’t a problem). I swam in the caldera, which was very cold, but very fun (actually, about the same as the Polar Plunge).
This beach also had the remains of a whaling village- complete with rusted old boilers and falling apart, decrepit houses. It was very interesting to see, because it was not entirely disintegrated into the dirt and rocks, due to the fact that it is so dry there.
Thankfully, we made it through the Drake Passage relatively unharmed, although we have the joy of returning to it for the way back ☹ Its all been totally worth it though. Hopefully in the next few days we will see even more wildlife and a large penguin rookery. We will actually land on the peninsula tomorrow, so that is very exciting.
Also, does anyone know how to add pictures on a blog like this? if you know, tell me so I can add cool pictures of penguins and icebergs.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Drake Passage and Iceberg!!!

So I have now spent a day and a half in the Drake Passage, where lots of oceans throughout the world combine. Its really, really shaky, and you can’t really walk around unless you are hanging onto stuff. We have lectures each day, and yesterday there was a big swell, and all the chairs (and the people in them) fell over. The people who work on the ship= the waiters especially must be laughing their heads off at us silently. They are very nice though…all the lunches are buffet and they will bring soups and drinks to you so you don’t have to try and walk while carrying liquids.
The anti-nausea medication is kind of an ice-breaker conversation topic…everyone is using something (and those who aren’t are not surfacing cause they are super sick). We are using a patch that goes behind your ear. Its been very effective, although it totally dries out your mouth. Other people are using wristbands, and various pills.
We just saw an iceberg off the right side of the boat, which was amazing to watch…it was actually a nice thing to see, because it means that we are getting close! We now just keep seeing more and more on the horizon…they are so incredible looking. This evening we are landing on “Deception Island” which is right off the peninsula. I’ll definitely write more after that, because hopefully there will be penguins to see!! Also, there is a bit of a swimming competition…if you swim off the beach up to your neck they give you a certificate. I am currently in a penguin lecture…I have been learning so much about the continent and everything to do with it.
Hopefully in my next entry (later today with any luck), I will have some cool pictures to put up. I will definitely add pictures of these icebergs, because wow they arehuge and the water is such a beautiful blue now. Is nice to see something on the horizon besides endless sea, even if what we are seeing are just frozen pieces of sea. I can't wait to get on land though...to see the penguins and to be able to walk straight a little. Although I think we have all gotten some sea legs, so walking is rather hard.

We just got an announcement saying "Welcome to Antarctica" !!!!

Sunday, December 6, 2009

The first few days

December 5th 2009

I am on my way! We left Miami on December 3rd, and arrived in Santiago, Chile on the morning of the 4th, then got a plane to Buenos Aires. We spent they day in Buenos Aires, and took a tour of the city. Although we were very tired, we went walking down a pedestrian street, and found a great little place for dinner, where I had homemade pasta, which was delicious. This morning we woke up at 5, got a plane to the south of the world at 8 with a group of people on the ship. This was interesting, because this was at a domestic airport, where there was very little English spoken. It gave us a chance to get to know some of the other people on the cruise. The flight was long…it takes about 3 and a half hours to get to Ushuaia from Buenos Aires. They also take the “Fasten your seatbelt” rule a whole lot more seriously than flights in the states do. Whenever it got turned back on, they wouldn’t let people get up for any reason, which is different than in flights I have been on in the U.S., where you can go to the bathroom practically whenever you please as long as the flight is not taking off or landing. Some people had trouble dealing with the enforcement of this rule. (I got all the good bathroom gossip because our seats were at the way back of the plane).
When we arrived, Ushuaia was having a nice summer day- it had snowed in the morning, and was at a temperate 40 degrees. It was so cool landing though, over a choppy sea and through snow capped mountains. Although the airport is literally on the water, so I was under the impression we were landing in the water for a few frightening minutes. We went to a national park in Ushuaia, and got to walk around the city a little bit. It is very cute, but man its cold! This cruise has 250 people on it; and from what I can tell, about half speak English, and half speak German. All of the announcements and instructions and messages are in both those languages. There is also a small group that speaks Chinese, (and I am under the impression solely Chinese, although technically you are supposed to speak either English or German, and they cannot guarantee any other languages to be spoken.) We got on the ship, had the lifeboat drill, and we ate dinner with a really nice couple from Washington state that we met at the airport.
After all of that (at 9 pm…its light out so very late here) we had a ship meeting where they introduced everybody, and kind of told us the routine. We are going though the Beagle Channel tonight, and will enter the Drake Passage early in the morning (which are the most treacherous waters in the world because lots of different oceans meet there). Tomorrow there is bird and other wildlife watching, and lots of lectures on different things about Antarctica. They told us to take the nausea medication before bed tonight, because apparently the tough stuff will start in the middle of the night. We applied nausea patches this afternoon, which are supposed to be effective for three days. Other people are using pills, or gels that they put on their wrists. We will see what works.
Well its finally gotten dark out (at around midnight) so I am going to go to sleep. Sun rises at a little before 5am. Since it’s the summer, its light out longer…much longer, since we are at the edge of the world. It really does feel like the world’s end, and that we are sailing into the great unknown ☺

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Leaving on a jet plane

I am leaving tonight!!!!

I am finishing the packing, and then driving to Miami with my mom (about a 3 hour trip straight across the state) and we leave from there to go to Buenos Aires.
We will be in Buenos Aires for about a day, and then will go to Ushuaia, and then get on the ship, the "MS Fram" (its Norwegian) and go to the Antarctic Peninsula. Then we go back, and I get another day or 2 in Buenos Aires.

I have never been to South America before, and I am sooo excited to see Buenos Aires. I think we are going on a general tour. I hope the weather is nice (I am being spoiled by FL) I am bringing my computer so I have something to empty my pictures onto, because I think I will certainly fill up more than a memory card of pictures of everything I hope to see over the whole trip.

:) soooo excited

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Get ready, get set....go!!!

I am packing now for my trip to Antarctica!
I will be gone December 3rd to December 17th. I go to Buenos Aires, then to Ushuaia (the southernmost city in the world, at the bottom of South America) and then I get on a boat to go to the Antarctic Peninsula.
I am so so so excited!!
There is internet on the ship, and although I don't really understand how that works, I am hoping to update this almost every day or so, and keep you all up to date on my adventure!!